To bike on the Katy trail was great. No cars, lots of protection from wind and sun and nice little towns on the side of the trail. We stopped and have a look on the small towns we passed but when it came to the bigger ones, Boneville and Jefferson we failed completly. The checkout of our accomodation was poor and we ended up so far outside city center that we did not even bother to think about going back into town. We got stuck in our room at the outskirts of the city centers. Better was our last site in Klondike statepark. We stopped in Augusta for dinner before we went the last few reminding miles to Klondike. While putting up the tent we had a good chat with one of the rangers who where very interested in what we are doing and the trip we are on. Klondike is a statepark with campingfacilitys placed just beside the Katy trail. In the park there are paths to walk and from a high point you get a very scenic view over the surrounding landscape.

The overall experience of Katy trail is positive. Very interesting to follow the remains of this old railway and read about its history at the Trail heads. We are now planning for a new route towards Washington DC. From Pittsburgh there is the same type of old railroad converted into bikepaths that goes all the way into Washington. Getting to Pittsurgh in one piece is now our primary goal. This new route is shorter than the original planned so we might have to bike shorter day stretches and a bit slower. What a pity…NOT! 🙂

Two nights in St Louis is enough for this time and it is time to get back to business. We have compensated for the bad locations in Boonville and JC with those nights in St Louis at the Millenium hotel situated just beside one of the city skyline profiles, The Arch. Watching the Arch, checking out the City Museum and just strolling around downtown has been very nice.

Tomorrow we will continue our tour following the new route.

Yesterday was our last day in Kansas and we are now in Missouri. During the last 3 days of  bicycling we have left the Trans Am Trail and followed roads that leads us to a trail called the Katy Trail. Several people that we have met on our biketour have recommended this trail, wich is a bikepath built on an old railroad. We decided to find and follow this trail, partly to avoid the Ozarks but mostly because it supposed to be very nice to ride. A bikepath with no cars, that will be a relieve for a couple of days!

High temperature and humidity have been demanding, but never a problem last days in Kansas. As long as we roll it’s fine. It was a bit of a pain though to mend a puncture under the scorching sun in 95 degree heat.

Tomorrow we will start cycling on the Trail. We dont have any maps but we think this is a well developt trail and this will be solved as we go along. We now do look forward to at least 4 days of easy gliding on our bikes.

Leaving Colorado and entering Kansas was not a very dramatic event. Or perhaps it was. At the border, another group gathered at the sign saying ”Welcome to colorful Colorado” at the same time as we were taking some pictures on the sign for Kansas. They all shouted and screamed a little while when suddenly someone in the group fired a gun! Everyone started to shout and laugh and then they jumped into their car and drove away. Dont know what it was all about. Perhaps they did one more bullet hole in the sign?

In the beginning of Kansas it was very dry. All creeks were entirely empty and the lakes was only blue on our map.

This gradually changed, and when we approached Larned we could see trees at the horizon! More and more trees and even water in the creeks. The longer into Kansas we have traveled, the more it looks like home in Sweden. Except for all the oil rigs that we dont see many of back home. Small roads, nice landscape and still lucky with the weather makes our Kansas stretch very nice, so far.

We fear a lot of headwind coming days so this may have to be revised.

MAY THE TAIL WIND BE WITH YOU!

In the last days we have passed over the highest point on our tour, visited the most scary B&B we ever seen (did not stay) and missed the whole 4-july thing.

The last stretch from Breckenridge was supposed to be hard and we started at 7 in the morning with the idea to be up at noon. The planned strech was short this day. With no hurry at all we started gently and worked our way up. It took only two hours to reach the sign that market the highest point at Hoosier pass! We stopped for a well deserved break and of course some posing in front of the sign, to document our triumph, before going down towards Fairplay.

Doing well uphill gave us a lot of extra time and we decided to go longer than planned. Thats how we ended up in Guffey… We had talked to a couple of guys who described a very special place to us, but we did just not connect that place with the map descripion of the B&B in Guffey. We arrived in Guffey just when it was going to start rain. Thunderstorms were coming behind us and we were very happy to be in Guffey before the rain should start to fall on us. The problem was that we could not find the B&B. We biked through the village but no sign of any B&B. Almost in the end of the road just in the end of the village there where a lot of skeletons and other strange exhibitions. We had found the B&B! The guy who is running the place came out from his workshop gave us a key to a small building and said we could stay there if we wanted. We went up to the house cruising in high grass betwen some carcasses laying in front of the building. It was all very rustik but that was not a problem. It was more the idea of ​​having to grope among rotting carcasses in the dark of night on the way to the outhouse. One in our party thought it was ok (we have flashlights 🙂 ) but one thought it was not. Despite the thunderstorm which now flashed uncomfortably close, we continued cycling.

We have been ”weather lucky” all this tour and so even this time. The thunder storm passed beside us, close but not over us and we could easily go all the way to Cañon City.

We made it through The rocky mountains and came down to Cañon City in one piece!

In Cañon City we had a reservation for two nights so that we could have a rest during the 4th of july. We also wanted to see the celebration of Independence Day. What we did not know was that Colorado is in a fire ban and that there where no fireworks in Cañon City. As a matter of fact there was not much of a celebration at all! We had a good time anyway. We took a fantastic tour into the royal gorge and just rested our tired leggs.

The days in Cañon City passed quickly and we continued to Pueblo. Coming into Pueblo felt like a phase was done and a new one started. Pueblo is also supposed to be the middle of the Transam Trail that we are following most of our journey. Many people we meet say that what we now are leaving are the most beautiful part. Well I hope there is still more to come and we look forward to go on flat ground for a while.

We are now changing from high altitude to high temperature. This is a new challenge for us to se how we can cope with the heat.

Started early from Kremmling with an idea that we would reach Frisco at a reasonable time of the day. The distance is only 42 miles but we knew that Frisco was on a 2000 ft  higher elevation than Kremmling and that the climb would require a lot of power and energy. In the beginning it was cold but as the sun rised so did the temperature.

As we went on we suddenly found ourselves more than halfway to Silverthorne and that without much effort. We took a break and ate some of our food and just looked at the surroundings and the nature. We decided to keep the final destination open for the day.

This turned out to bee a very good day for cycling. In the afternoon we got a tailwind lifting us up and we went all the way to Breckenridge. Without a plan for this final destination we found ourselves booked into a very nice room at a hotel in the middle of the town. Right now we are sitting in a sofa after a god meal and my guess is that we will fall asleep, still  sitting here…. 🙂

Now we have finished our first month of cycling. Looking back it has been fantastic. Yes we have already used a lot of superlatives but it is the truth!

Last state to pass was Wyoming. Started green and hilly in Yellowstone National park and turned, after a couple of days, into a high desert. Warm and somedays with headwind made this part real tuff.

But who are we to complain! In Wyoming we met guys doing something they call Tour Divide. They are cycling from Canada to Mexico following the continental divide, selfsupported and whenever possible, offroad! Incredible!

Anyway, I know that Nina is happy to be out of  ”bearcountry”. We did see a bear in Yellowstone and we met people who had seen two cubs playing close to the road just outside the park. If I saw two cubs I would wonder, were is mama bear. Looking at our tour through Yellowstone I think the traffic was the most dangerous wildlife in the park. Outside the park there was a traffic poem that can illustrate how intensive it could be. Signs with approx. 100m between said.

Sign1 We saw wildlife

Sign2 from afar

Sign 3 Then we hit them

Sign 4 with our car

Sign 5 SLOW DOWN!

Some sort of traffic sign humor… 🙂

So what about the rest of Wyoming? Well the cykling through the high desert was tuff and turned into a stretch of transportation. One strech was passing through Jeffrey City and before we got there we heard a lot of scary stories. Ghost town and very creapy they said. Well we stopped there at the bar and had a meal. It was alright but I would not like to spend the night there.

It is still amazing to us how generous people are here. We stoppet to look at a historical mark when a man and his family asked where we came from and where we are heading. So we talked a little and just when we where about to leave he gave us his card and offered a place to stay if we by any chance would be in the neighbourhood from where they live.

I must also mention our meeting with Frosty and the two Irish gentlemen Dave and Gerry. Normaly we are not so keen on stopping ing the middle of an uphill but with those guys there was no alternative. Dave and Gerry ar riding for a god cause and Frosty, well I think riding is a good cause it self so. Keep on cycling boys!

In a few day we will put up a new page with links to those we have met that have a homepage or blogg. But for now, have a look under PICS. We are now starting to add som pictures there!

Going through  Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Montana, with all their differences makes once head so full of impressions that its getting hard to separate it all. And this is only the beginning of our trip. Still there is much to see. Anyway day after tomorrow I believe we will pass our first 1000 miles! Worth celebrating? Yes! And we will do that in Yellowstone National Park where we have two days at a hotel. 🙂 Ahh forgot to mension, this is also when we celebrate midsummer in Sweden so lets hope we can find a pole we can use to dance ”små grodorna” around.

Last couple of days we have biked in the Rocky Mountins. Biking in those hills have been tough but worst is when we have a head wind. A uphill always follows by a downhill but headwind can keep on going all day! And sometimes it does…

But what have we seen and done? Seen a fantastic nature of course. Beautiful little towns like Virginia City and Nevada City. Almost kept as if time have been standing still for 150 years!

We parked our bikes outside the saloon. Stepped in with our bikingshoes klicking against the floor like cowboyboots and ordered a beer. I believe a whiskey would have been more accurate. Anyway it felt fun just to pretend a little. 🙂 Not to forget Jackson. They have a pool with hot spring water that was cooled down from 150 to 103 degres F. It felt so good to just float in that hot water.

Also we have met several cyclist heading in various directions. Len and Karen, a nice couple from Canada doing almost the same trail as we are. Park, the South Korean boy going by himself also towards the west coast. Not to forget Chris and Tom who are biking from Portland in Oregon to Portland in Maine. Everyone have there own goal but We share all one thoght though. Biking is a good way to travel!

Goodbye Oregon and Washington. For seven days we have biked through those two states. Washington north of Columbia river and Oregon on the south side.

The people we met in these two states have been very friendly and helpful. Many people have come up and ask where we come from and where we are headed. When we were searching our way out of Portland there was always someone there to help if we where lost.
Unfortunately we have not been able to stop and see as much of the surroundings as we liked. The warm weather has completely taken the life out of us and after long days of cycling, we need to rest.

In the last two days the temperature have decreased and we got more time taking in the landskape and the nature we bike through.

In Clarkston we crossed the Snake River and entered Lewiston, Idaho.
One day in Idaho and we can se quite a difference in the landscape. More trees and vegetation makes the landscape not so dead looking as in Washington. So far we are following ClearWater River and our path is flat without any high climbs. Traffic is heavy and it is quite difficult some times to keep your line when the big trucks pass. But, so far so good!

Tomorrow we will continue following the river and we hope to see more of this beautiful part of America.

/Stefan

Yes or should I say no. We reached The Dalles today but the target was Maryhill. To hot, late start and mabye one climb to many made us decide to stop in The Dalles. Now we are checked in at a motel and we will continue to Maryhill tomorrow instead. The good part is that we now will have more time to drink this glas of wine that Greg so friendly wanted us to have when getting there.

Nu har vi äntligen kommit igång med cyklingen. Det är helt fantastiska vyer vi fått se. Vi har valt att följa Columbiaflodens södra sida och där kan man cykla på något som kallas Old Historian Columbia Highway. Lite trafik men väldigt kuperat. Men det är klart att ska man ha utsikt måste man först upp till utsiktsnivå. Det är ett väldigt populärt cykelstråk att cykelträna på men det är bara vi som cyklar med 25 kilos packning. Många är nyfikna och frågar vart vi är på väg och vi har också fått mycket hjälp på vägen. Det räcker med att stå still en liten stund så kommer det fram någon och frågar om man vill ha hjälp. På ett av utsiktsställena kom vi i samspråk med Greg som med en kompis Steve var ute på träningsrunda. Han tyckte det var en häftig tur vi påbörjat och han skickade med oss en slant för att vi skulle unna oss ett glas vin när vi kommit fram till Maryhill. Tyvärr har vi inte kommit fram idag som det var tänkt. Största problemet har varit värmen. På eftermiddagen har det idag varit runt 33 grader och Nina har inte mått bra av detta.
Nu ser vi fram mot en glidar dag imorgon då vi gör de återståede 30 kilometrarna på platt mark under förmiddagen när det är någorlunda svalt och så räknar vi med vind i ryggen.

Stefan och Nina

3 Juni 23:00

Igår landade vi på Portlands flygplats. Lite nervösa efter alla historier vi fått höra om alla de som fastnar i tullen och inte blir insläppta.

Direkt efter avstigning delades vi in i två led. De som var amerikaner och de som inte var det. Amerikanerna var nog tredubbelt så många som vi som inte var amerikaner men det märktes inte på genomströmningen för när de var igenom kontrollen stod hälften av oss icke amerikaner fortfarande i kö. Det skulle lämnas fingeravtryck och det skulle fotograferas. Sen genomgick man en personlig intervju. Vi hamnade framför en barsk kvinna. ”Och hur länge ska ni stanna då?” 90 dagar svarar jag glatt. Det kanske hon inte gillade för hon blängde på mig med en sträng blick sen frågade hon vad man kunde ha för sig i 90 dagar. Vi ska cykla tvärs USA svarade jag då. Glatt igen (man vill ju verka glad och trevlig) men det skulle jag nog inte gjort. För nu blängde hon strängt igen sen frågar hon lite syrligt ”Har ni inget bättre för er, har inte du ett jobb att sköta?”   Ja jo ehh… helt klart att glad och trevlig gick inte hem. Till slut var hon iaf nöjd med våra svar och släppte förbi oss med ett kort ”Have a nice stay”.

Efter att man gått igenom 1:a passkontrollen kommer man till ett rum med bagageband där väskorna ska komma fram. Eftersom vi varit så länge i kontroll 1 var våra väskor avlyfta från bandet och låg utspridda på golvet. Då allt var ihopsamlat, inklusive cyklarna i sina kartonger var det dags för kontroll nummer två. Nu var vi ju inte så många kvar så det var ingen kö att tala om. Här bestod problemet mest i att på tvären ta sig igenom alla dörrar och gångar med två cyklar i kartong. Tillslut var vi igenom och kunde på en ordnad cykelmontageplats fixa till cyklarna för att sedan bege oss in mot centrum av Portland.

Först incheckning på hotellet och sedan ut på rekognocering i närområdet. Runt hotellet finns McDonalds, Burger King, Burger Village och Dennys. Alla är det hamburgerkedjor i snabbmatskategorin. En enkel meny på McDonalds har vi hunnit med och det främst i studiesyfte. Jo den smakade precis lika som hemma, kan de kanske ha tillgång till 100% svenskt nötkött?

Idag har vi gjort stan och bl a besökt fina rosodlingar. Odlingarna, där man förädlar och driver fram rosor, låg liksom lite upp och nu förstår vi skillnaden på down town och up town. Up town tog drygt en timma och Down town max 10 minuter! Förutom denna lilla utflykt har vi också köpt på oss mat, bränsle till köket och vattenflaskor till cyklarna. Vi är redo att ge oss av! Imorgon börjar vår resa.

God natt! /  Stefan